Reviewed April 2007

Pool Tips^™
Converting from Chlorine or Bromine to Baquacil^®

You must read all of the Liability Agreement before taking any action, especially all safety and liability warnings.

1. Remove chlorinating brominating source (pill, stick, tablets, etc.), and make no further addition of these products. Disconnect the chlorine feeder if practical.

2. Test the chlorine level. Even if it reads 0, proceed with only one of the following options :
   1. If the water is freshly filled, clear, does not need to be shocked for any other reason and came from a municipal water supply or was trucked in, add one bottle of Baquacil Chlorine Neutralizer for any size pool.
   OR:
   2. If the water is clear, does not need to be shocked for any other reason and contains free chlorine, add _____ bottles of Baquacil Chlorine Neutralizer (at 1 bottle per 10,000 gallons of pool water for every two ppm of free available chlorine), and allow the water to circulate for eight hours. Verify that free chlorine is 0.
   OR:
   3. If haze or algae is present, add _____ bottles Baquacil Oxidizer (at 1 bottle per 10,000 gallons of pool water)—and allow the water to circulate for eight hours. Very that free chlorine is 0.

3. If the pool water is found to contain metals, add ______ bottles of Baquacil Metal Control (at one bottle per 10,000 gallons for every 2 ppm present). Even if there are no metals present, all plaster finished pools must be treated with Metal Control. See the notes below. Allow the pool to circulate for eight hours.

4. Add ________ Pints of Baquacil Sanitizer And Algistat (at 4 pints per 10,000 gallons) to achieve a concentration of 50 ppm. The addition of Baquacil Sanitizer And Algistat may cause the pool to become temporarily hazy. This haze should clear with 24 – 48 hours. Congratulations. You are now swimming in a Baquacil pool.

1. Use Baquacil Test Strips, follow the instructions included in the Baquacil Pool Care Guide. Check the Baquacil Sanitizer And Algistat and pH levels weekly. Make adjustments as necessary.
2. Top up Baquacil Sanitizer levels to 50 ppm whenever your sanitizer level is at or near 30 ppm. Use the dosage chart that came in the Baquacil Pool Care Guide.
3. Add ________ ounces of Baquacil Algaecide (at 1.3 ounces per 10,000 gallons) every week. Don’t add too much, it could make your water foamy. If you get “soap bubbles” when you splash, and your calcium levels are normal, reduce your algaecide amounts until the foaming stops—or switch to Baquacil Performance Algaecide.
4. Add ______ bottles of Baquacil Oxidizer (at 1 bottle per 10,000 gallons) every month.

• A chlorine stabilizer (cyanuric acid) reading over 50 ppm will interfere with the test for total alkalinity. Actual Total Alkalinity = Tested Total Alkalinity – 1/3 CyA Level. What does this mean to you? If you have a stabilizer level over 45 ppm when you start converting, you will have it when you finish. It will go away slowly over a year or two. However, we won’t test for it in a Baquacil program, because Baquacil pools don’t have stabilizer in them. Until your level drops below 50 ppm, you will need to have us test your water during a water balance in a Baquacil Program and a chlorine program and we will have to manually adjust your total alkalinity treatment.

• When starting a plaster pool on the Baquacil Pool Care System: It is important to chelate potentially damaging trace metals from the pool water. After chlorine has been removed and before the addition of Baquacil Sanitizer, all plaster pools must be treated with Baquacil Metal Control regardless of metal analysis. Plaster pools are particularly susceptible to scale build-up and metal staining on the surface as a result of improperly balanced water and trace metals in make-up water. The scale may appear as rough patches on the plaster surface and may vary in color due to other impurities (particularly metals) that may be present. If you see existing metal stain discoloration, do not convert to Baquacil Pool Care System unless the pool surface is properly treated (acid washing, sand blasting, etc.) to remove the accumulated deposits. Existing stains may intensify and/or alter their color if these precautions are not followed. It is more likely to happen in older pools.




Please let us help you, anytime.

IMPORTANT

Pool Size: ___________ Gallons Technician: ___________
Date: ________________

We write Pool Tips^™ for the exclusive use of our own local customers. They are meant as a summary of general information, to be discussed in our store, with our staff, to determine which items are best for specific pools. Pool Tips^™ are a trademark of Gull Group, Inc. All rights reserved.

Our suggestions assume that you have given us a proper description of your pool's size, history and symptoms. Sometimes we can figure it out, sometimes we can't. Your doctor has years more training, far better diagnostic tools, and makes way more money—and sometimes he or she gets it wrong, too.

1. Read all labels carefully, and only use chemicals exactly as described on the label. Never mix chemicals together outside of the pool. Some of them can cause a fire or explosion.
2. Do Not follow any advice or suggestions here without coming into the store, customizing them to your specifics, and receiving them in writing.
3. Do Not print these out or reproduce for any purpose whatever. They are all copyrighted, and we take our copyrights very seriously.
4. Don't Blame Us for anything. It's free advice, and worth the price paid. We're trying to help, but pools are complex, and chemicals and electricity are dangerous.
5. Our Best Advice: Go find a local pool dealer who knows what they are doing, become a steady customer, and give them a chance to learn about you and your pool. Pick a brand, pick a store, and stay with them.



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